Ashura in the City

During the holy days of Moharram there's a lot of activity at night on the streets. 

One tradition is for people to make a pilgrimage to light candles at various makeshift stations around the city near mosques. 



The candles are just stuck on nooks in nearby walls.



It didn't seem that safe to me...

Some people aim to light candles at 40 different stations around the city.  When lighting a candle you're supposed to make a wish.  If your wish comes true, the person will often pledge to make food to distribute to others during the month of Moharram next year, like this lady serving sholo zard:

The food is meant for anyone.  It's not aimed specifically for the less fortunate or anything.  In fact, eating this donated food is thought to be especially holy.  One person I met had his dinner every night at stations like this during the holy month.  A good way to save money!!

Some people set up elaborate stations and staff them with their entire families.  This one is serving tea:

I ended up going into a religious building that was all women.

It was overwhelming to be surrounded by so many chadoris in one room! 

These women were tying strings around a holy shrine to make wishes.

After I had taken a few photos, we heard an announcement over the loudspeaker which even with my limited farsi I understood to be prohibiting photos.  In my defense, I wasn't the only one.  Many younger women were taking cell phone photos as well! 

Ladies Who Lunch

I was a little bit nervous about lunch in Andon, first because it was gender-segregated and I would be separated from Ahmad, but second because I didn't want to get sick! Luckily, I had a lovely time and so did my stomach!

All of the women headed next door to the neighbour's house, while the men stayed in the original house we were visiting. A long plastic table cloth (soffreh) was layed out and set with the obligatory fresh herbs (sabzeh).



It was a bit chilly but it was nice to eat al fresco. 


 The ladies were served gormeh sabzeh (which can be made vegetarian/vegan, but usually contains meat).  It's an Iranian stew served over rice.  With so many guests to serve, the rice is cooked in a huge pot that's brought right to the dining area:

(Notice that shoes are removed before you sit on the carpet to eat.)

Our hostess found out that I was vegetarian and went to the trouble of making me a separate dish, kookoo sabzi, (centre, below) which is one of my favourites (actually is there any vegetarian Iranian food that's not my favourite??).  It's a delicious spinach and herb-filled kind of frittata, but it's lighter than the traditional frittata or omelet.


My drink here is a freshly-mixed mint and yogurt drink called dough (pronounced doog).  Previously, I had only seen bottled dough in Iranian grocery stores but I didn't care for it as it's very sour.  This drink was fresh and light, a perfect accompaniment to a sunny outdoor lunch.