The Blue Mosque of Isfahan

At the head of Imam Square in Isfahan is the beautiful blue mosque.  It's not the only blue mosque, but it's the largest and most famous one.  It is huge both inside and out (about 140 000 square feet!).  It was built in the 1600's by Shah Abbas, hence the original name of the Shah Mosque (Masjed-e Shah ).  After the revolution it has become known as Imam Mosque (Masjed-e Imam).

And that's all just the outside of the mosque!!  I'll feature the inside on another post.

The Early Bird Catches the Bread

Travelling halfway around the world can give you some pretty intense jet lag. Actually, the jet lag I experience wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Mostly, I was just waking up super early (4 AM, then 5 AM). However, an afternoon nap every day was an absolute necessity. I tried taking melatonin for jet lag, but I really didn't notice any improvement.

Being up early allowed me to enjoy some truly Iranian experiences, such as hearing the beautiful pre-sunrise call to prayer .

Another way to spend an early morning in Iran is to head to the local bakery to pick up some fresh bread.

Every neighbourhood has a few bakeries like this. They are only open at certain times throughout the day (generally before mealtimes).   They are very efficient operations.

Bread is called nun (nan/naan) in Farsi.  It is the original naan that you may have heard of in Indian cuisine. The Persians introduced it to India!  There are several different types of Iranian bread (more pics to come!) This one is the most basic and readily available type.

Outside each bakery is a rack like this where the fresh hot breads are laid out to cool off a bit before being sent home with you.  During busy times the customers themselves will come here and spread out their breads for a few minutes before taking them home.  Bags are not usually provided, so many people just carry the bread in their hands or bring their own bags.

Breakfast was always tea and a yummy spread of feta, butter, jams and honey to top the fresh bread with.  Deelish!

Ashura in the City

During the holy days of Moharram there's a lot of activity at night on the streets. 

One tradition is for people to make a pilgrimage to light candles at various makeshift stations around the city near mosques. 



The candles are just stuck on nooks in nearby walls.



It didn't seem that safe to me...

Some people aim to light candles at 40 different stations around the city.  When lighting a candle you're supposed to make a wish.  If your wish comes true, the person will often pledge to make food to distribute to others during the month of Moharram next year, like this lady serving sholo zard:

The food is meant for anyone.  It's not aimed specifically for the less fortunate or anything.  In fact, eating this donated food is thought to be especially holy.  One person I met had his dinner every night at stations like this during the holy month.  A good way to save money!!

Some people set up elaborate stations and staff them with their entire families.  This one is serving tea:

I ended up going into a religious building that was all women.

It was overwhelming to be surrounded by so many chadoris in one room! 

These women were tying strings around a holy shrine to make wishes.

After I had taken a few photos, we heard an announcement over the loudspeaker which even with my limited farsi I understood to be prohibiting photos.  In my defense, I wasn't the only one.  Many younger women were taking cell phone photos as well!